Author Archives: daniellegehrmann

You lived through the experience?

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“Your words are guesswork.

He speaks from experience.

There’s a huge difference.”

So wrote the thirteenth century Sufi poet, Jelaluddin Rumi. The translation from the Persian original of his poem, “Judge a moth by the beauty of its candle”, continues to resonate today, even in our post-modern world (The Essential Rumi, C. Barks & J. Moyne, New York: Harper Collins, 1995.)

Rumi sought a higher form of spirituality then, just as many millions of people do today around the world.

I would describe my own spiritual experience so far as, in a word, holistic. I consider myself rather fortunate – or perhaps just brainwashed – by a mother who espoused acceptance of people no matter what their culture or religion. She taught me about the importance of what comes from a person’s heart, rather than how often they go to their house of worship or what they eat on a certain day or do at a certain time of year. She practiced kindness and goodwill towards her fellow human beings every day. For her, religion was essentially a private matter – and what has religion got to do with friendship anyway?

As a child, I remember visiting the homes of family and friends from Germany, Iran, South Africa and China, to name a few. Looking back, I guess you could say that my childhood was a cultural tapestry, with a German father and a British-Irish mother. My mother was an excellent judge of character. She recognized positive and negative traits in people regardless of cultural or religious assumptions or stereotypes. This forms part of my set of values that I have happily chosen to continue to practice.

In 2007, one of my university lecturers invited me and five other students to present papers at the Society for Pakistan English Language Teachers (SPELT) conference held annually in different cities of Pakistan.

After visiting Pakistan, I also travelled to Dubai. Since I was wearing a shalwar kameez and had mehendi on my hands, let’s say I did attract a bit of attention. Expatriate Pakistanis in Dubai were delighted to learn that I had just come from Pakistan and were very interested to know where I had been and how I found Pakistan I wrote about this trip for Sada-e-Watan in 2008: ‘Sydney University students visit Pakistan,’ http://sadaewatansydney.com//students-pk.htm.

When my friends and I encountered expatriate Indians, they couldn’t hide their astonishment. We get similar responses in Australia; comments range from: “What on earth did you go there for?” to “You lived through the experience?” One day in Canberra, some Indians approached my friends and I, curious to see us dressed in shalwar kameez (we had just had lunch at the Pakistani High Commission). The conversation turned to music and one of them said: “Oh, they (Pakistanis) just rip-off Indian songs and palm them off as their own.” I was flabbergasted by their continual cynical remarks. Happily, I know several Indians in Australia who have unprejudiced thoughts towards Pakistanis and associate regularly with them. Invariably it turns out that those who have unkind words to say have not ever even visited the country. I wonder how they can pass comment on a place they haven’t ever been to?

Perhaps such prejudice is not surprising given the lack of contact between the people of both countries. During my visit to Pakistan in 2007, I remember meeting a charming lady who runs the Modernage Public School and College in Abbottabad alongside her husband. She told me about an exchange program some students from their school were arranging with a school in India. Unaware of the significance of such contact, I thought of this simply as a wonderful way for young students in different countries to get to know each other. I also didn’t really understand what she meant by the struggle that Pakistanis face when trying to obtain a visa for India. I recently learnt of the reciprocal visa restrictions on Indians and Pakistanis trying to visit each others’ countries: city specific, police reporting, no tourist visas etc.). She also talked about the malleability of children in general and how they don’t seem to harbour prejudices like adults do. I still didn’t understand exactly what she was driving at. It was only recently after subscribing to a friend’s newsletter that I began learning about the divide and even lack of knowledge in general about every day life in Pakistan and Pakistanis.

It is obvious that the media on the whole tend to project a distorted view of Pakistan and its people. If I believed even half of what I saw in the nightly news in Australia, I doubt I would have visited Pakistan in the first place. Now, having enjoyed my first visit tremendously, I jumped at the chance of a second visit with a friend and her four children this year.

My travels to several countries in Europe, Africa, Asia and North America, including six months studying in Italy, have taught me much about our marvellous planet and the peoples who inhabit it. It doesn’t appear to me to be particularly complex. On the contrary, it’s rather simple. Everywhere I’ve found similarities: people thinking about their jobs and their children’s education, going shopping, making sure their family has enough food or going to various houses of worship for spiritual guidance. Everywhere there are a few rotten apples in the barrel who spoil it for everyone; but at the end of the day, we probably all have pretty similar aims in life.

We would be hard pressed to find two countries with closer historical, cultural, ethnic and in some cases religious bonds, than India and Pakistan. With so many similarities why is there such a focus on perceived differences? I have faith that Indian and Pakistani brothers and sisters will not continue to play into the hands of those individuals who have decided that a particular perennial line of argument keeps their political agenda alive. Most politicians and sections of the media have not really contributed to any sense of courage and hope among their people or attempted to shed past antagonisms, moving forward to embrace a positive future. Most rely on blaming the other country for all their problems, making the citizens of India and Pakistan pay for failed governmental policies.

My vision for India and Pakistan is that their peoples will start to listen to each others’ stories and begin demolishing the wall that hinders efforts to live in harmony as neighbours.

The original link can be found at: 

http://www.thenews.com.pk/TodaysPrintDetail.aspx?ID=231775&Cat=14&dt=4/8/2010

This version has some minor modifications.

Holiday snapshots from Pakistan

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A report on my second trip to Pakistan at the beginning of 2010. On our return, my travelling companion and friend, Huma Ahmar, and I had a lot of fun and laughs writing this:

“Breathe and smile!” This philosophy stood us in good stead during our recent trip to Karachi, as some considered us rather brave travelling with four young children (ages 11-4)! We met up in Hong Kong and travelled to Karachi on Pakistan International Airlines. This was Danielle’s second trip to Pakistan (she wrote about her previous trip for Sada-e-Watan in 2008: “Sydney University students in Pakistan,” http://www.sadaewatansydney.com/students-pk.htm).

Exhausted after the long night flight and transit through Islamabad, we ambled out onto the sun-drenched forecourt of Jinnah International, where we were warmly greeted by Huma’s family. There was an instant sense of familiarity as we were swept up in the chaotic Karachi traffic. We had arrived.

On the second day, we ventured out for a spot of afternoon shopping in Bahadurabad with Bhabi, sister-in-law in Urdu. How fashions can change in two years! Yet, the new styles started to grow on us by the end of the afternoon and we did indulge in some new pieces.

Some exciting events figured in our packed schedule. Three birthdays punctuated our time in Karachi and we managed to stretch them out pretty well too! There was a family dinner at Largess and an afternoon tea, lunches at Lasania and Arizona Grill in Zamzama and cakes galore, of course! Plans were in full swing for a reunion with Huma’s English Department pals from her student days at Karachi University and about 13 of us made it to Roasters in Zamzama. The lively atmosphere grew as everyone was taking a trip down memory lane while having a chuckle about the good ol’ KU days. Usually, when you’re the outsider at these types of gatherings, the stories and jokes tend to be a bit lost on you; but we all had a memorable evening filled with fun and laughter.

An inspiring occasion held at the Arts Council was an evening dedicated to the Student Movement of the 1950s. We were kindly invited by Zakia Sarwar, whose late husband was one of its leaders. The theme of the evening was “Looking back to look forward.” The occasion, in part, paid homage to the collective efforts of many students of the day rallying for their rights across Pakistan; this nostalgic journey was made through slide presentations, short documentaries, impassioned speeches, a rich vocal performance by Tina Sani and verbal accounts in person from those who were intrinsic to The Movement. Reminiscent of students’ politics it took Huma back to her days at KU. The electric atmosphere of the evening was heightened by the time the acclaimed band ‘Laal’ hit the stage (see: https://www.facebook.com/laalpak?pnref=lhc). They are doing a fantastic job of raising awareness of both the students and the working class about their rights and the bright future that awaits them should they decide to move forward and claim it. They are indeed friends of democracy and human rights. As the name suggested, “Looking back to look forward” certainly fulfilled its promise. Beena Sarwar, the daughter of the late Dr. Mohammad Sarwar, is making a wonderful effort of continuing his legacy. She and her colleagues are doing an amazing job of providing a platform for the Pakistani youth to express themselves, something that they need in these challenges times. We wish them luck!

The following day it was off to the beach Pakistani style. West of Karachi, French Beach was the perfect soothing tonic. It was great to see Omayr again, who had been so gracious during Danielle’s 2007 visit. Our group spent the afternoon out on the beachfront merrily chatting away and getting acquainted. After a feast of succulent crabmeat prepared by one of the locals, it was time to sink into the lounges and gaze dreamily out over the Arabian Sea, losing ourselves in more conversation.

We managed to take the kids to the National Museum of Pakistan to change their impression that “Karachi is a place with hot bazaars and lots of people”, which is their standard response when quizzed about the city. So, after a spot of lunch at Alpha Restaurant and a quick peak in at Zainab Market – we couldn’t resist – it was off to the museum for a dose of culture and history and to learn about the Indus River Valley Civilisations, the Mughal Dynasty and Quaid-e-Azam. So-called ‘normality’ then returned when we headed to Clifton Beach for a heady mix of camel and horse rides and snake charmers by sunset. Only in Karachi! The four year old took a liking to a very cute “baby snake” that the snake charmer had brought out to show; but a meltdown nearly occurred when informed that she couldn’t take it home with her. Thankfully, it was averted with chocolates.

Huma’s father wanted to take the whole family on a day trip outside Karachi and Thatta was chosen as a place of historical interest. It is a city known for shrines of the various dynasties that once presided over the landmass that is now Pakistan. He was fortunate enough to get a special pass and we indeed felt privileged to have the opportunity to visit this area and learn something about important bygone epochs. The tombs at Makli remind one of the intransience of life and the permanence of death. The fine workmanship and the vibrant colours have withstood the test of time. It was a picture perfect day as the bright, clear sun, cloudless, blue sky and golden, sandy colour of the stone provided a striking landscape to photograph. Our next stop was the beautiful mosque in the town centre built by the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan in the Fifteenth Century to thank the townspeople for their hospitality while he was staying there. What a generous gift!

The end of our stay was drawing nigh, so the pressure was on to fit in all our shopping as there were a few gifts to pick up for people at home and we were both in need of adding to our bangle collections. Our friend Farah was obliging and offered to take Danielle to all the right places. We picked up pretty much all we needed at Gulf Market before moving on to Jafferjee’s, the place known for its quality leather goods. After making a pit stop at Butler’s in Zamzama to pick up some delectable chocolates, we joined the family for high tea at The Village at Seaview.

Now, what trip to Pakistan would be complete without getting mehendi done!

Uzma and Danielle caught up one last time for coffee at Butler’s and before we knew it we were being pushed into a rickshaw with a reassuring: “Say no more, I know someone”, and off we flew to the parlour.

Hectic was an understatement! Those 12 days were certainly an unforgettable adventure! So many things to do, so little time. Unfortunately, we still left some disappointed faces in our wake. The front door felt like a revolving door at times and the phone seemed to ring non-stop; no sooner had people waved goodbye than the phone rang and some others were on their way round. We slotted in numerous visits to the homes of family and friends new and old; and well, we did leave some things undone; so we’ll just have to readmit those to the ‘to do’ list for our next visit.

The original link can be found at: 

http://www.sadaewatansydney.com/unistudentspakvisit2010.htm

The version above has some minor modifications.

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Sydney University students visit Pakistan

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This lighthearted piece was published in 2008, after our first trip to Pakistan in November 2007. It certainly reflects the mood of the trip.

When our lecturer, Dr. Ahmar Mahboob (Department of Linguistics, University of Sydney), asked the six of us: Emily Hunter, Jane Harvey, Jana Rezková, Sandy Chang, Yuka Funabashi and I if we would be interested in accompanying him to Pakistan to present our various research papers at the 23rd annual SPELT (Society of Pakistan English Language Teachers) conference, we jumped at the opportunity. While most of us were busy preparing our end of semester papers, the excitement was quietly mounting beneath the manic exterior; for I think now we all sensed that a unique experience was about to happen.

On arrival at Jinnah International on November 1, 2007, we were whisked away by our surrogate family to the comforts of our new surroundings. We barely had time to catch our breath before being initiated into the frenetic Karachi traffic. First port of call was Bahadurabad to get us attired in shalwar kameez. Not ever having seen so many bright colours in the one place before, well, let’s say we were spoilt for choice. As well, it turned out to be an exercise in patience on the part of Dr. Mahboob in taking six women shopping! Next stop came our introduction to Pakistani cuisine: the roll kebab. We were hooked. After many squeals emanating from my colleagues on the trip home, due to the likes of traffic they hadn’t ever witnessed before, we finally collapsed into an exhausted heap, only to be awoken at sunrise by the call to prayer and a welcoming “as-salaam walaikum” as we wearily found our way downstairs to breakfast. Our days were a mixture of conference commitments, presentations at Karachi and Aga Khan Universities, teamed with site-seeing escapades: camel rides and snake-charming on Clifton Beach while taking in the magnificent sunset, shopping, a visit to the Mohatta Palace followed by high tea at The Village, a spot of sheisha at Seaview and more shopping intermingled with numerous visits to the homes of new-found friends. Then there was the very swish soirée hosted by the British Council. Students never had it quite so good! On the final day of the conference when all the formalities were said and done, we managed to escape to the cool of the Prince Theatre to see the acclaimed movie Khuda Kay Liye, which we all enjoyed immensely for its cultural value.

Along the way, we, the PAC (Pakistan Adventure Club), adopted many names for ourselves: the brood, the kids, the gang, the family; these pseudonyms formed part of the invisible glue binding us together through our new shared experiences.

Since the conference was a moveable feast, the next destination was Abbottabad, which we reached courtesy of PIA through Islamabad. Unfortunately, we didn’t see a lot of Abbottabad itself, but that was counterbalanced by the enthusiastic welcome and generous hospitality offered by our hosts. Leaving Abbottabad, we drove through some magnificent landscape of dramatic gorges and mountains before stopping for lunch in charming Nathia Gali, then Murree for more delicious food and naturally more shopping. Since our arrival in Islamabad coincided with Benizir Bhutto’s, as well as the fact that there was a demonstration due to be held the following day, the conference had been cancelled and the city was more or less in lockdown. However, after the security alert had been relaxed, this only gave us the green light for further site-seeing adventures, always accompanied by our generous hosts. We concluded our visit with our presentations at Fatima Jinnah Women’s University in Rawalpindi before departing by bus for Lahore.

Lahore was something else; a city steeped in history. On our ‘must see’ list was the Wazir Khan Mosque since it was one of the scenes featured in Khuda Kay Liye; and what visit to Lahore would be complete without looking in on the breathtaking Lahore Fort? Being a Sunday, there was a throng there. We, ourselves, at times became the tourist attraction; the locals just as intrigued by us as we were by them. We befriended Omayr who happened to be staying at the same guest-house as us. Lucky for us he turned out to be a Lahorite and offered to chauffeur us around. Our calender consisted of dinner at Cooco’s Den and Café, sheisha at Jumping Java, a visit to the magnificent Shalamar Gardens, and our final lunch as ‘a family’ at The Village. Sadly, Jane and Sandy had to depart for the real world. All good things must come to an end. What we had lost though in numbers we made up for in enthusiasm.

Warm faces welcomed us wherever we went and Multan was no exception. After presenting our papers for the final time at Bahauddin Zakariya University, a delicious surprise was awaiting us. We were transported by car through lush agricultural land to where we took the boat to one of the islands in the middle of River Ravi. What we then feasted our eyes on was nothing short of a scene out of A Thousand and One Arabian Nights. A sumptuous meal had been prepared by one of our hosts’ wives, which we enjoyed in our tent seated on plush carpets. What enhanced our magical experience occurred on our return trip to the mainland. Since the current was strong enough to propel the boat in the desired direction, the engine was switched off, allowing us to drift silently in the hazy darkness. Yet another memorable event was an afternoon shopping expedition stopping off for periodic cups of doodh-patti before our de rigueur foray into the world of bangles: a thrilling event in itself.

What an incredible adventure we had! All in all there were late nights and some very early mornings. Every wink of sleep lost was worth its weight in gold; we wouldn’t have missed any of it for the world; and for the heart-warming welcome we received wherever we went? Shukria, Pakistan!

The original link can be found at: http://sadaewatansydney.com//students-pk.htm

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“Your words are guesswork. He speaks from experience.
 There’s a huge difference.” These few lines of the poem, ‘Judge a moth by the beauty of its candle,’ by the twelfth century Sufi poet, Jelaluddin Rumi, potentially highlight one of the main reasons behind many of the misperceptions and ignorance about Pakistan.

Pakistan is a rather misunderstood corner of the planet, with its overrepresentation of negativity and associated images. Undoubtedly, the international mass media has largely contributed to the somewhat distorted image of the country. In short, Pakistan is in need of a major public relations makeover.

Somehow assuming the role of accidental brand ambassador, I have found myself reporting on aspects of the country which are often overlooked and shielded from the international eye. Through my first-hand experiences, my aim has been to portray and provide information about this oft-maligned place in a more balanced way and beyond the media stereotypes. My rumblings have ranged from hard political and economic topics to the downright frivolous. Further, my visits to Pakistan seem to have placed me in the precarious position of bringing a non-Pakistani voice into the equation. My writings have attracted criticism for such an ‘idealistic’ stance, as well as rebukes for even visiting the country in the first place, given ‘the way they treat their women.’ The first point of defence are those last lines of Rumi’s poem… no matter the amount of television news reports and articles about a country; nothing heightens your sensitivity towards a place than first-hand appreciation. Pakistanis both inside and outside the country appreciate the support; my only response is that Pakistan unjustifiably receives a lot of bad press and, frankly, deserves better. The journey starts in 2007……

All comments and feedback are welcome!