Tag Archives: history

Sydney students visit Pakistan

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Back in 2007, when only a handful of people had anything complimentary to say about Pakistan, some intrepid students discover a delightfully different reality

When one of our lecturers from The Department of Linguistics at the University of Sydney asked six students: Emily Hunter, Jane Harvey, Jana Rezková, Sandy Chang, Yuka Funabashi and I if we would be interested in accompanying him to Pakistan to present our various research papers at the 23rd annual Society of Pakistan English Language Teachers (SPELT) conference, we jumped at the opportunity. While most of us were busy preparing our end of semester papers, the excitement was quietly mounting beneath the manic exterior; for I think now, we all sensed that a unique experience was about to happen.

On arrival at Jinnah International on 1 November 2007, we were whisked away by our surrogate family to the comforts of our new surroundings. We barely had time to catch our breath before being initiated into the frenetic Karachi traffic. First port of call was Bahadurabad to get us attired in shalwar kameez: the three-piece outfit consisting of loose-fitting pants, shalwar, a long tunic or kameez, and a long, flowing scarf called a dupatta. Not ever having seen so many bright colours in the one place before, well, let’s say we were spoilt for choice. As well, it turned out to be an exercise in patience on the part of our lecturer in taking six women shopping! Next stop came our introduction to Pakistani cuisine: the roll kebab. And we were hooked. After many squeals emanating from my colleagues on the trip home, due to the likes of traffic they hadn’t ever witnessed before, we finally collapsed into an exhausted heap, only to be awoken at sunrise by the call to prayer and a welcoming “as-salaam walaikum” as we wearily found our way downstairs to breakfast.

Our days were a mixture of conference commitments, presentations at Karachi and Aga Khan Universities, teamed with site-seeing escapades: camel rides and snake-charming on Clifton Beach while taking in the magnificent sunset; shopping; a visit to Mohatta Palace followed by high tea at The Village, a spot of sheisha at Seaview and more shopping intermingled with numerous visits to the homes of new-found friends. Then there was the very swish soirée hosted by the British Council. Students never had it quite so good! On the final day of the conference when all the formalities were said and done, we managed to escape to the cool of the Prince Theatre to see the acclaimed movie Khuda Kay Liye, In the Name of God, which we all enjoyed immensely for its cultural value.

Along the way, we, the PAC (Pakistan Adventure Club), adopted many names for ourselves: the brood, the kids, the gang, the family; these pseudonyms formed part of the invisible glue binding us together through our new shared experiences.

Since the conference was a moveable feast, the next destination was Abbottabad, which we reached courtesy of PIA through Islamabad. Unfortunately, we didn’t see a lot of Abbottabad itself, but that was counterbalanced by the enthusiastic welcome and generous hospitality offered by our hosts. Leaving Abbottabad, we drove through some magnificent landscape of dramatic gorges and mountains before stopping for lunch in charming Nathia Gali, then onto Murree for more delicious food and naturally more shopping. Since our arrival in Islamabad coincided with Benizir Bhutto’s, as well as the fact that there was a demonstration due to be held the following day, the conference had been cancelled and the city was more or less in lockdown. However, after the security alert had been relaxed, this only gave us the green light for further site-seeing adventures, always accompanied by our generous hosts. We concluded our visit with our presentations at Fatima Jinnah Women’s University in Rawalpindi before departing by bus for Lahore.

Lahore was something else; a city steeped in history. On our ‘must-see’ list was the Wazir Khan Mosque, since it was one of the scenes featured in Khuda Kay Liye; and what visit to Lahore would be complete without looking in on the breathtaking Lahore Fort! Being a Sunday, there was a throng there. We, ourselves, at times became the tourist attraction; the locals just as intrigued by us as we were by them. We befriended Omayr who happened to be staying at the same guest-house as us. Lucky for us he turned out to be a Lahorite and offered to chauffeur us around. Our calendar consisted of dinner at Cooco’s Den and Café, sheisha at Jumping Java, a visit to the magnificent Shalimar Gardens, and our final lunch as ‘a family’ at The Village. Sadly, Jane and Sandy had to depart for the real world. All good things must come to an end. What we had lost though in numbers we made up for in enthusiasm.

Warm faces welcomed us wherever we went and Multan was no exception. After presenting our papers for the final time at Bahauddin Zakariya University, a delicious surprise awaited us; we were transported by car through lush agricultural land to where we took a boat to one of the islands in the middle of River Ravi. What we then feasted our eyes on was nothing short of a scene out of 1001 Arabian Nights. A sumptuous meal had been prepared by the wife of one of our hosts, which we enjoyed in our tent seated on plush carpets. What enhanced our magical experience occurred on our return trip to the mainland. Since the current was strong enough to propel the boat in the desired direction, the engine was switched off, allowing us to drift silently in the hazy darkness. Yet another memorable event was an afternoon shopping expedition stopping off for periodic cups of doodh-patti (milk tea) before our de rigueur foray into the world of bangles – a thrilling event in itself.

What an incredible adventure we had! All in all there were late nights and some very early mornings. Every wink of sleep lost was worth its weight in gold; we wouldn’t have missed any of it for the world; and for the heart-warming welcome we received wherever we went: Shukriya, Pakistan!

Karachi: high tea
High tea in Karachi with the sweetest of sweets
Karachi University
At Karachi University: making connections
Some of the conference presenters and organisers
Some of the conference presenters and organisers
Abbottabad
Abbottabad
Lahore: Wazir Khan Mosque
Lahore: Wazir Khan Mosque
Atmospheric Lahore: at Cooco's Den and Cafe
Atmospheric Lahore: at Cooco’s Den and Cafe
The happy gang explores the Lahore Fort
The happy gang explores the Lahore Fort
Multan: 1001 Arabian Nights
Multan: 1001 Arabian Nights
Multan: showing off our bangles
Multan: showing off our bangles

Danielle Gehrmann

The above above has some minor modifications. The original article can be found at: http://sadaewatansydney.com//students-pk.htm


Memories I live and breathe – the call to Pakistan

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In this article, I take an introspective journey and consider my collective memories of my long-time relationship with Pakistan, and its dynamic contribution to our contemporary world.

Judge a moth by the beauty of its candle.

Shams is invisible because he is inside sight.

He is the intelligent essence

Of what is everywhere at once, seeing.

Rumi

Pakistan tends to be a rather misunderstood corner of our planet, with a plethora of negativity and associated images emanating from international mass media. Undoubtedly, such an overrepresentation has contributed largely to a somewhat distorted image of the country. Through my first-hand experiences, I have subsequently sought to fill this enormous gap, with an aim to provide information and present this oft-maligned place in a more balanced way. Somehow assuming the role of accidental brand ambassador, I have found myself reporting on aspects of the country, which are often overlooked and shielded from the international eye. My writings have ranged from hard political, economic, and diplomatic to the more light-hearted. Yet, my attempts to present a Pakistan beyond the media stereotype have frequently been met with resistance. Further, my visits seem to have placed me in the precarious position of bringing a non-Pakistani voice to the table and consequently attracting criticism for such an ‘idealistic’ stance, as well as several rebukes for even visiting the country in the first place, given “The way they treat their women!” Sometimes, even I find the ignorance astounding: “Is that safe?”; “I thought everyone would be in a burqa!” while I’m left to explain that the dress code for women in Pakistan is largely not as in Iran or Afghanistan. Despite Pakistan being home to two Nobel Peace Prize laureates, including the youngest-ever, Malala Yousafzai, somehow the reality of many Pakistanis as urban, well-educated, ambitious, upwardly mobile, dynamic, and many with a strong entrepreneurial spirit, is getting lost in the fray. 

Frere Hall: Nineteenth Century architecture

No matter the amount of television news reports you see or articles you read, nothing heightens your sensitivity toward a place more than first-hand experience. My well-considered opinion is that Pakistan receives a lot of bad press and, frankly, deserves better.

The journey starts in 2007, when, as a student, I was invited to present a research study at a language-teaching conference, along with five other students from the University of Sydney. Our travels all over the country turned out to be a life-changing experience. My second visit was at the end of 2009, when a friend invited me to join her and her family for the end-of-year holidays. In 2012, a couple of brother-sister friends from Sydney decided to have a double wedding extravaganza in Karachi and it was such an honour to share in their happy occasions. In 2015, one of my best friends married in Karachi; the pre-wedding preparations were certainly fun, yet nerve-raking at the same time. The most recent visit, in 2019, was at the invitation of a friend in Lahore for his wedding celebrations. And the difference between a Punjabi wedding and a Karachi wedding really struck me!

Beyond purely social engagements, I manage to give at least one talk every visit; and in 2019, I spoke to some very engaging high school students in Lahore. I have previously appeared on a talk show for PTV World in Karachi. In Australia, I give occasional talks and enjoy attending functions to further Australia-Pakistan relations. Throughout those five visits, I have developed an affinity for colourful fashion and handicrafts; whether a Sindhi wall hanging with inlaid mirror work given to me by a friend in Karachi; a beautiful woven carpet from Lahore; a hand-made wooden- and silver-framed mirror, plus some leather and cowhide cushions, all take pride of place in my home. For special occasions, I like to wear “Made in Pakistan,” whether a striking shawl or one of my bespoke pieces by a designer friend in Karachi, co-ordinated with bangles and other fun pieces of which I have amassed quite a collection. A handbag by an iconic local leather goods brand has turned into a favourite and nearly always attracts a compliment every time I use it. There’s a little bit of Pakistan fairly close by at any given moment.

Distinctive Pakistani truck art

As much of the world is emerging from a harrowing couple of years since the start of the COVID19 pandemic, there is renewed excitement in the air. On the whole, Pakistan has fared well in the management of the pandemic, thanks to gold-standard tracing and record keeping developed during the polio vaccination drive. And I’m feeling the pull, back to Pakistan to reunite with friends who have become like family and experience more of the five Fs: friends, family, fun, fashion and food – khana: the most important word in Urdu! Overwhelming generosity and hospitality, historical treasures, archeological sites, the varied perspectives of multicultural Pakistan from the eastern areas of Punjab across to Balochistan towards Iran, each with their own identities uniquely expressed through differing customs, styles of music and varied spices used in their respective cuisines will captivate even the most discerning traveller and mesmerise you like a snake charmer on Clifton Beach, in Karachi. You, too, will submit.

A Punjabi wedding: a once in a lifetime experience – Lahore, Lahore hai!

On my last visit, I vowed to venture up north on my next visit. We had a glimpse of Pakistan’s striking northern beauty when we stopped in delightful Nathia Gali en route from Abbottabad to Islamabad, in 2007, and so the Himalayas are a huge draw card for the next trip. At the top of the list are Chitral, Mingora, Swat, and around Hunza, Skardu, and Gilgit. For geology enthusiasts, Pakistan is home to the second largest salt mine in the world: the Khewra Salt Mine, a prime tourist attraction, located in the province of Punjab. Thanks to policy reforms in recent years, rest assured that this kitchen staple will reach you directly from Pakistan. 

St. Mathew’s Church, Nathia Gali, built 1914

My memories are, indeed, vivid and wonderful, past and present, and fill me with warmth and gratitude for all the amazing friendships and connections forged throughout the years; and every time I return, the memories and friendships just keep getting more wonderful and more amazing. It certainly feels like the time is ripe to relive some old, treasured memories and create some new ones!

Danielle M. Gehrmann

The above version has some minor modifications and hyperlinks, which were missed in the original publication at: https://dnd.com.pk/memories-i-live-and-breathe-the-call-to-pakistan/261245

All photos are from my personal collection.

Acknowledgement: Much appreciation to Brigadier Shoaib bin Akram for his patience, generosity, and assistance in the publication of this article.

Pakistan through history and culture

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A trip to the National Museum of Pakistan in Karachi and Thatta for a dose of archaeological treasure…

Our trip to Pakistan last January turned out to be a culturally enriching journey and we thought it would be nice to document some of our experiences and observations. We found Pakistan a place of historical and cultural diversity with much to offer beyond the usual image projected.

We were determined to show the children that there is more to Karachi than “hot bazaars and lots of people”; their rote response when quizzed about the city. So, we thought it would be a good idea to take them to the National Museum of Pakistan for a dose of culture and history and subsequently change their impression of the city.

In 1970, the museum relocated from Frere Hall to Dr Ziauddin Ahmad Road and is under the auspices of the Department of Archaeology and Museums. Nestled in a surprisingly peaceful oasis, the ornate façade of the building forms a backdrop to people having their lunch in the gardens on the grass. The museum is pleasantly unique in its architecture. While most museums are entirely indoors, a colonnade on the upper level provides a charming outdoor aspect from which the galleries branch off.

The building houses artefacts which span from 2,000,000 years ago to contemporary civilisation. Such is the expanse of history attributable to parts of The Subcontinent. Life-size relief maps locate the various Indus River Valley Civilisations, such as Periano Ghundai (3500-2000BC), Moenjodaro (2500-1500BC) and Harappa (2100-1600BC). Various aspects of life are represented through accompanying miniature models, which are particularly eye-catching to children. Amongst the numerous archaeological treasures are earthenware jars and vast collections of coins belonging to various Mughal dynasties, with some dating back to the 6th century BC of the Indo-Greeks, Scythians and Parthians. Ethnological galleries include life-size representations which show village life, their handicrafts and dwellings, and everyday dress and costumes, together with some exquisite jewellery. Relating to the Independence Movement, there are items of furniture, paintings, and photographs of political figures and items of clothing of Jinnah. Buddhist, Hindu and Islamic artefacts are testament to the various religions of The Subcontinent to which both Pakistan and India have played host since ancient times.

It is indeed fortunate that this little museum brings to life the vast number of civilisations dating back 2,000,000 years. On our visit, it struck us that the museum could be enhanced with some potential changes. Most of the artefacts had accompanying explanatory plaques; however, some didn’t. Unfortunately, this gave a feeling of inconsistency. Also, the overall display of items would be improved with better lighting. Airtight cabinets would protect priceless and irreplaceable items from moisture damage and general deterioration and ensure their preservation for future generations.

To make a museum visit more appealing to youngsters is to make it an interactive and fun experience. Other museums have had success with kids’ Q&A worksheets in the form of questionnaires and various activity booklets to be filled in throughout the visit with a small reward at the end.

As our cultural heritage site, we chose to visit the city of Thatta. It was the capital of Sindh from the fourteenth century till 1739 and is known for its historic monuments. These are also listed among UNESCO’s world-heritage-listed sites. See: http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/143

There are two main famous areas in Thatta. First, the tombs at Chaukundi, the necropolis of graves at the Makli Hill, where several Tarkhan and Mughal officials are buried. The graves are made of solid rock and are embossed with beautiful calligraphy from the Quran. Admiring these graves reminds one of the impermanence of life and the finality of death. Second is the Shahjahani Mosque, which is the main mosque of the city and was built by the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan as a gift to the townspeople for their hospitality shown to him. It is adorned with exquisite blue and white tile work designed like a mosaic and fortunately these vibrant colours have withstood the test of time. The mosque is also a testament to the grandeur of the Mughal Dynasty, as is the Jama Masjid in Delhi, one of the largest and best-known mosques in India, also commissioned by Shah Jahan.

Today, Thatta is also known for its handicrafts and colourful glass bangles. These artefacts are well known throughout The Subcontinent. The hand-printed fabrics, block-printed clothes, the exquisite embroidery work inlaid with tiny mirrors and the intricately designed glass bangles sold in the bazaars of Thatta entice the tourists and are difficult to resist.

An inspirational occasion was an evening at the Karachi Arts Council, dedicated to the Student Movement of the 1950s called ‘Looking back to look forward.’ This nostalgic journey was made through a collage of slide presentations, short documentaries, impassioned speeches and verbal accounts in person from those who were intrinsic to The Movement. Many artists and poets contributed to this event and a rich vocal performance by Tina Sani stood out as something truly magical, transporting the audience to another plane. The electric atmosphere only heightened once the acclaimed band Laal hit the stage – https://www.facebook.com/laalpak?fref=ts – and it wasn’t long before most of the students in the auditorium were on their feet singing away. Laal are indeed friends of democracy and human rights and are doing a fantastic job of raising awareness of both students and the working class about their rights. Further, by providing the Pakistani youth a platform to express themselves, Beena Sarwar, together with her colleagues, is doing some wonderful work to continue the legacy of her late father, Dr. Mohammad Sarwar. We certainly hope that this canvas with its palette of nostalgia, youthful energy, hope, music, poetry and passion provides a source of inspiration to help them create a bright future for themselves, should they decide to move forward and claim it.

Not long ago, a friend lamented, “…Yes what’s happening in Pakistan at this point is demoralising, but then if you live in this situation, I guess you develop a level of immunity as a safeguard…do not moan and groan so much, and continue to maintain a level of normalcy, but deep down it hurts and you keep having a feeling as if you are sinking!” Despite the gravity of the current situation, events such as this show that people are willing to “maintain a level of normalcy.”

Given the difficult times that contemporary Pakistan is facing, the importance of preservation of cultural and historical treasures in the National Museum Of Pakistan and at Thatta becomes more important than ever. Their presence as icons of pride form part of the cultural and national identity of Pakistan and can be revered amongst current and future generations alike.

Huma Ahmar

Danielle Gehrmann

The version above has some minor modifications. The original article can be found at: 

http://jang.com.pk/thenews/nov2010-weekly/nos-07-11-2010/foo.htm#2

A matter of perspective

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One journey across Pakistan only leaves a visitor wanting more

Let’s face it. Most of the news that emerges from the global media powerhouses about Pakistan, is of a country more or less emerged in civil unrest and sectarian violence, where bombs explode left, right and centre and where blacklisted organisations try to stake their perceived claim to Pakistan. On the whole, the overall security situation is described as precarious at best.

My story though is not to continue with the daily battering that Pakistan receives, but to reveal the Pakistan of which I have become rather fond.

Cooks, cleaners, drivers, snake charmers, anarchic traffic, hot bazaars, armoured vehicles, personal bodyguards… Life is good in Pakistan. Yet, it is not a place for the faint-hearted; but that is a matter of perspective. I was born and have spent most of my life in Sydney: “Sleepy Sydney”, as a friend’s father affectionately calls it. He is a Pakistani.

I would describe my two visits to Pakistan, in 2007 and 2010, as nothing short of rewarding. In 2007, I attended the Society of Pakistan English Language Teachers Conference with a group from the University of Sydney. Travelling from Karachi to Abbottabad, Murree, Nathiagali, Islamabad, Lahore and Multan before returning to Karachi, we indeed took in some stunning sights between conference commitments.

Pakistan is home to K2, the second highest peak in the world. If you enjoy hiking, trekking and generally communing with nature, Gilgit, Hunza and Skardu in the northern areas of the country might do it for you. The Thar Desert is another formidable area I would like to explore.

The peace and serenity of the Himalayas formed the backdrop for our winding drive from Abbottabad to Islamabad, via charming Nathiagali and the thriving market town of Murree. Historical treasure such as the Lahore Fort stands with pride of place in the Pakistani consciousness and certainly took our breath away. The UNESCO World Heritage-listed Shalamar Gardens, created by the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan in the 17th century, and the only one remaining of several that were created during his reign, would certainly rival the Tuileries Gardens in Paris in the historical stakes. For a religious flavour, the shrines in Multan were humbling and awe-inspiring at the same time. Our journey up the River Ravi, part of the Indus River system only left us wanting more.

We developed a liking for handicrafts, such as carved wood, woollen carpets and soft furnishings; clothing such as the shalwar kameez and cashmere shawls; accessories such as handbags and bangles and souvenirs from the kitsch to the highly exotic. Given the affordability of merchandise, shopping expeditions started to figure highly on our agenda.

Something you cannot put a figure on was the friendliness and endless hospitality we encountered all over the country. In Islamabad, a family spontaneously opened their home to seven of us when our accommodation fell through at the last minute and conference organisers and hosts saw to our every comfort wherever we went.

In my opinion, Pakistani cuisine rivals some of the top cuisines of the world for its delectable mix of spices, a wide variety of steaming hot roti, meat and vegetarian dishes, and out-of-this-world sweets, catering to every taste bud.

Thanks to Facebook and Twitter, friendships formed on that 2007 trip were rekindled in January this year, when a friend and I, along with her four children, travelled to Karachi together. The main premise was to visit family and friends. A lesson about important bygone epochs came when her father organised a family day trip to Thatta, which is a city known for its shrines of various dynasties that once presided over the landmass that is now Pakistan. This outing also included a visit to the stunning mosque in the centre of town erected by Emperor Shah Jahan in the 15th century.

An abundance of sites across the country should please even the most discerning archaeology or history aficionado. Only a stone’s throw from the capital Islamabad lies Taxila, which was a port of call for Alexander the Great en route to India. In Taxila’s environs, Greek, Buddhist and Hindu ruins are testament to the various cultures and religions to which Pakistan has played host since ancient times. Moenjodaro in Sindh, heart of the Indus River Valley Civilisations, is regarded as one of the most remarkable cities of the ancient world. The Pakistan National Museum in Karachi houses some priceless artefacts of both the ancient and modern worlds; another reminder of a rich history indeed worth preserving.

I consider pre-departure research makes one’s travelling experience all the more rewarding and is simply part of being a responsible traveller. An open mind is another essential element and Pakistan will reward your effort. Avoiding demonstrations, clutching your bag a bit more tightly in busy areas and surveying a street before you walk down it are all standard precautionary measures to take anywhere in the world. Moving about in a large cosmopolitan metropolis such as Karachi, and travelling around Pakistan, I do not recall ever having felt unsafe or in a threatening environment. On the contrary, since Pakistanis don’t often encounter foreign travellers, they are genuinely thrilled and honoured that you have chosen to visit their country.

Speaking from experience, family, friends and food are three elements at the heart of Pakistani culture. If you travel here for the first time, I guarantee that your efforts will be rewarded, for you too will be struck by its charm and embraced as part of the Pakistani family by the time you leave.

The version above has some minor modifications. The original article can be found at: 

http://jang.com.pk/thenews/jun2010-weekly/nos-13-06-2010/foo.htm#2

Building bridges with peace parks

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We all have to start somewhere and why not start with the citizens in the case of India and Pakistan

An instalment of ‘Conversations’, the ongoing email exchange between an Indian and a Pakistani journalist in this newspaper included a discussion on war memorials and peace parks, and the notion of such memorials and parks in India or Pakistan, or potentially a joint venture as a path to reconciliation (‘Push for peace parks,’ Aman ki Asha page, Political Economy section, Mar 28, 2010).

The inspiration stemmed from some precedents already set, hinging on universal philosophies of peace parks as places of introspection, reflection, greater understanding and healing. For example, the one between Israel and Jordan, the one running along the former Iron Curtain and a proposal for one between the Greek-Cypriot and Turkish-Cypriot territories, which incidentally would be more vital than ever given Cyprus’s recent election results.

Initially, I found the idea rather jarring – pretty out there and even alien. Then another example sprang to mind: the ANZAC (Australian and New Zealand Army Corps) Commemorative Site at the Gallipoli Peninsula (Gelibolu) in Turkey. During the First World War, a protracted military campaign took place mainly between the Australian, British, and New Zealand forces and the Turkish Army. An annual dawn service is held there to commemorate the bravery and sacrifice of the ANZACs.

Many say that these battles left an indelible mark on the Australian psyche and have become a large part of Australia’s national identity. Even though all the Australian First World War veterans have passed on now, the numbers of attendees are increasing every year at the Gallipoli dawn service. ANZAC Day parades are held in most Australian cities and descendents of First World War veterans have been given permission to participate in place of their deceased relatives, proudly wearing their medals.

Due to the increasing number of people making the pilgrimage to Turkey, the Gallipoli Peninsula underwent extensive excavations and rebuilding between 1999 and 2000 through a co-operative process between the Turkish, Australian and New Zealand governments: http://www.anzacsite.gov.au/3building/

On the tiny beach affectionately called ANZAC Cove, where the ANZACs landed at dawn on 25 April 1915, an enormous epitaph is inscribed with the moving words:

“Those heroes that shed their blood

and lost their lives…

You are now lying in the soil of a

friendly country.

Therefore rest in peace.

There is no difference between

the Johnnies

and the Mehmets to us where they

lie side by side

here in this country of ours…

You, the mothers,

who sent their sons from far away

countries

wipe away your tears;

your sons are now lying in our bosom

and are in peace.

After having lost their lives on this

land they have

become our sons as well.”

–Atatürk, 1934

The writer of these lines was the Turkish commander at Gallipoli, Mustafa Kemal who later became Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, the founder of the Republic of Turkey and its first president. Atatürk means ‘father of Turks’. It could be said that he played a similar role to Mohammad Ali Jinnah Quaid-e-Azam in the creation of Pakistan.

On a visit to the Gallipoli Peninsula some time back, I felt a sense of unification about the whole place. The Lone Pine cemetery set up on the hill above Anzac Cove has a Wattle Bush, which is an Australian native flower. This addition gave the whole place a further unifying feel.

These days, Turkey and Australia have remarkable political and diplomatic relations. At the time of the First World War, Australia was allied with the British forces and, along with New Zealand, became involved in the war effort due to its close ties to Britain. Some would say that Australia’s involvement in the war was therefore a case of ‘guilty by association’; nonetheless, if it weren’t for their enemy status at one time, perhaps the ‘friendship’ wouldn’t be so strong today. In other words, this shared historical enmity seems to bond the two countries today in such a way that if they hadn’t have been through this, then this sense of fraternity would not be so vibrant.

Two further examples come to mind: first, Japan and Australia were enemies during the Second World War. Despite some existing tensions with regard to Japan’s involvement in whaling, on the whole the two countries enjoy strong economic, commercial and cultural ties.

Second, the recent plane crash on Russian soil and subsequent deaths of many of Poland’s highest government officials, including its president, appears to have been a catalyst in the thawing of Polish-Russian relations; united in tragedy. We all have to start somewhere and why not start with the citizens, in the case of India and Pakistan?

A friend recently reminded me of the relatively new social networking media in our midst, such as Facebook and Twitter to name a few. These have become invaluable social tools, connecting people all over the world. So, why not get the citizens of India and Pakistan connected? From little things big things grow.

The examples of Turkey and Australia, Japan and Australia, and the recent positive development in Polish-Russian relations suggests that shared bonds of enmity do not exclude a future productive relationship between two countries. There is hope.

The version above has some minor modifications. The original article can be found at: 

http://jang.com.pk/thenews/may2010-weekly/nos-09-05-2010/pol1.htm#10

Beyond the conditioning

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The email was brief and to the point:

Dear Danielle,

If Pak stops sending murderers to India things will improve.

Thanks,

Raj*

I was pleased to receive this comment, because it showed the writer had read the piece and thought about it. Unfortunately, he hadn’t understood my main premise: that citizens can’t be held responsible for the policies of politicians and the misdemeanours of a few.

I wonder if he’s heard of the Amistad, a project that aims to establish constructive communications between the people of Cuba and the United States. The politics of both countries continue on a divisive course; however, there has been some relaxing of visa restrictions between the two countries in recent months, paving the way for people to see relatives after years apart (see: http://tinyurl.com/37exgqe).

The blame game is clearly counterproductive and juvenile. I believe that a shift from the high-handed and seemingly futile political maneuvers towards open and honest communication between citizens can lead to greater understanding.

My faith was restored by another email, in which the reader – let’s call him Ash* – felt compelled to share what he termed as his “personal experience and understanding about what we as children have been taught”. He wrote: “What we have been exposed to as children reflects who we are as adults. I was born and raised mostly in Pakistan growing up on the constant negativity about the nation “across the border.” It was not til I went to study in the US that I realized that so many of us (Pakistanis and Indians) have been fed all this hatred against each other since childhood. Although there are some issues that spark instant reactions from both sides (Kashmir, or the wars and terrorism) but I have found that on a common ground (the US) we tend to leave our prejudices aside.”

He continues: “I was really surprised to find out from an Indian friend of mine that they are taught the exact opposite of what we are taught in primary school regarding the war of 1965. We are taught that the Indian army was planning to attack and they had decided ‘we attack tonight and we’ll have breakfast in Lahore.’ They are taught that the Pakistani army had planned the attack and decided that ‘we attack tonight and we’ll have breakfast in Delhi.’ So much propaganda to justify who actually won the war.”

He feels it is such conditioning on both sides over the years that has brought us to where we are today: “It would be a great advantage to both the countries and the whole region if this animosity ends. Generation after generation being played by a handful of leaders on both sides for their own political agendas.”

His point about what we are taught from a young age and the impact that has on shaping opinions into adulthood reminded me of a Bulgarian friend whom I travelled with in Turkey a few years back. When we met up in Istanbul, she confided in me her initial reluctance to visit Turkey. What had been ‘drummed into’ her at school about Ottoman history and their iron-fist occupation of Bulgaria from the twelfth to the early twentieth centuries had led to her negative preconceptions of Turkish people.

She even told me how acutely aware she was of having the chance to turn back before reaching the border. This was how strong those instincts were. She was to call me on arrival at the bus station in Istanbul and asked a fellow passenger if she could borrow his phone. The passenger, a Turkish gentleman, happily obliged. When a second (Turkish) person, an employee at the bus station, let her also use their phone, she was floored. Her perceptions about Turkish people were turning out to be ill-founded. They were capable of kindness and compassion!

As Ash puts it, “conditioning” does appear to play a major role in shaping an individual’s opinion. That is why it’s important for people anywhere to question what they ‘hear’, by doing their own research and creating their own experiences, no matter how they go about that. The stories recounted above support the mantra of not believing everything one hears or reads without giving it a second thought.

Broadly speaking, I see one of the functions of a diplomat is to iron out the mistakes that politicians make; then let’s hope we, as individuals, can take on a more prominent diplomatic role; precisely a role that Ash has discovered outside Pakistan on neutral territory. Having forged such friendships outside India and Pakistan indeed may demonstrate the positive potential meeting under those circumstances holds.

Call me an idealist, but if governments and individuals gave less thought to competing than to engaging with each other, our world might become a more peaceful and harmonious place.

*Names changed to protect privacy

This article is a follow up to ‘You lived through the experience?’, Aman ki Asha page, The News, Mar 31, 2010.

This version has some minor modifications. The original article above can be found at: 

http://www.thenews.com.pk/TodaysPrintDetail.aspx?ID=240048&Cat=14&dt=5/19/2010 

You lived through the experience?

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“Your words are guesswork.

He speaks from experience.

There’s a huge difference.”

So wrote the thirteenth century Sufi poet, Jelaluddin Rumi. The translation from the Persian original of his poem, “Judge a moth by the beauty of its candle”, continues to resonate today, even in our post-modern world (The Essential Rumi, C. Barks & J. Moyne, New York: Harper Collins, 1995.)

Rumi sought a higher form of spirituality then, just as many millions of people do today around the world.

I would describe my own spiritual experience so far as, in a word, holistic. I consider myself rather fortunate – or perhaps just brainwashed – by a mother who espoused acceptance of people no matter what their culture or religion. She taught me about the importance of what comes from a person’s heart, rather than how often they go to their house of worship or what they eat on a certain day or do at a certain time of year. She practiced kindness and goodwill towards her fellow human beings every day. For her, religion was essentially a private matter – and what has religion got to do with friendship anyway?

As a child, I remember visiting the homes of family and friends from Germany, Iran, South Africa and China, to name a few. Looking back, I guess you could say that my childhood was a cultural tapestry, with a German father and a British-Irish mother. My mother was an excellent judge of character. She recognized positive and negative traits in people regardless of cultural or religious assumptions or stereotypes. This forms part of my set of values that I have happily chosen to continue to practice.

In 2007, one of my university lecturers invited me and five other students to present papers at the Society for Pakistan English Language Teachers (SPELT) conference held annually in different cities of Pakistan.

After visiting Pakistan, I also travelled to Dubai. Since I was wearing a shalwar kameez and had mehendi on my hands, let’s say I did attract a bit of attention. Expatriate Pakistanis in Dubai were delighted to learn that I had just come from Pakistan and were very interested to know where I had been and how I found Pakistan I wrote about this trip for Sada-e-Watan in 2008: ‘Sydney University students visit Pakistan,’ http://sadaewatansydney.com//students-pk.htm.

When my friends and I encountered expatriate Indians, they couldn’t hide their astonishment. We get similar responses in Australia; comments range from: “What on earth did you go there for?” to “You lived through the experience?” One day in Canberra, some Indians approached my friends and I, curious to see us dressed in shalwar kameez (we had just had lunch at the Pakistani High Commission). The conversation turned to music and one of them said: “Oh, they (Pakistanis) just rip-off Indian songs and palm them off as their own.” I was flabbergasted by their continual cynical remarks. Happily, I know several Indians in Australia who have unprejudiced thoughts towards Pakistanis and associate regularly with them. Invariably it turns out that those who have unkind words to say have not ever even visited the country. I wonder how they can pass comment on a place they haven’t ever been to?

Perhaps such prejudice is not surprising given the lack of contact between the people of both countries. During my visit to Pakistan in 2007, I remember meeting a charming lady who runs the Modernage Public School and College in Abbottabad alongside her husband. She told me about an exchange program some students from their school were arranging with a school in India. Unaware of the significance of such contact, I thought of this simply as a wonderful way for young students in different countries to get to know each other. I also didn’t really understand what she meant by the struggle that Pakistanis face when trying to obtain a visa for India. I recently learnt of the reciprocal visa restrictions on Indians and Pakistanis trying to visit each others’ countries: city specific, police reporting, no tourist visas etc.). She also talked about the malleability of children in general and how they don’t seem to harbour prejudices like adults do. I still didn’t understand exactly what she was driving at. It was only recently after subscribing to a friend’s newsletter that I began learning about the divide and even lack of knowledge in general about every day life in Pakistan and Pakistanis.

It is obvious that the media on the whole tend to project a distorted view of Pakistan and its people. If I believed even half of what I saw in the nightly news in Australia, I doubt I would have visited Pakistan in the first place. Now, having enjoyed my first visit tremendously, I jumped at the chance of a second visit with a friend and her four children this year.

My travels to several countries in Europe, Africa, Asia and North America, including six months studying in Italy, have taught me much about our marvellous planet and the peoples who inhabit it. It doesn’t appear to me to be particularly complex. On the contrary, it’s rather simple. Everywhere I’ve found similarities: people thinking about their jobs and their children’s education, going shopping, making sure their family has enough food or going to various houses of worship for spiritual guidance. Everywhere there are a few rotten apples in the barrel who spoil it for everyone; but at the end of the day, we probably all have pretty similar aims in life.

We would be hard pressed to find two countries with closer historical, cultural, ethnic and in some cases religious bonds, than India and Pakistan. With so many similarities why is there such a focus on perceived differences? I have faith that Indian and Pakistani brothers and sisters will not continue to play into the hands of those individuals who have decided that a particular perennial line of argument keeps their political agenda alive. Most politicians and sections of the media have not really contributed to any sense of courage and hope among their people or attempted to shed past antagonisms, moving forward to embrace a positive future. Most rely on blaming the other country for all their problems, making the citizens of India and Pakistan pay for failed governmental policies.

My vision for India and Pakistan is that their peoples will start to listen to each others’ stories and begin demolishing the wall that hinders efforts to live in harmony as neighbours.

The original link can be found at: 

http://www.thenews.com.pk/TodaysPrintDetail.aspx?ID=231775&Cat=14&dt=4/8/2010

This version has some minor modifications.

Holiday snapshots from Pakistan

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A report on my second trip to Pakistan at the beginning of 2010. On our return, my travelling companion and friend, Huma Ahmar, and I had a lot of fun and laughs writing this:

“Breathe and smile!” This philosophy stood us in good stead during our recent trip to Karachi, as some considered us rather brave travelling with four young children (ages 11-4)! We met up in Hong Kong and travelled to Karachi on Pakistan International Airlines. This was Danielle’s second trip to Pakistan (she wrote about her previous trip for Sada-e-Watan in 2008: “Sydney University students in Pakistan,” http://www.sadaewatansydney.com/students-pk.htm).

Exhausted after the long night flight and transit through Islamabad, we ambled out onto the sun-drenched forecourt of Jinnah International, where we were warmly greeted by Huma’s family. There was an instant sense of familiarity as we were swept up in the chaotic Karachi traffic. We had arrived.

On the second day, we ventured out for a spot of afternoon shopping in Bahadurabad with Bhabi, sister-in-law in Urdu. How fashions can change in two years! Yet, the new styles started to grow on us by the end of the afternoon and we did indulge in some new pieces.

Some exciting events figured in our packed schedule. Three birthdays punctuated our time in Karachi and we managed to stretch them out pretty well too! There was a family dinner at Largess and an afternoon tea, lunches at Lasania and Arizona Grill in Zamzama and cakes galore, of course! Plans were in full swing for a reunion with Huma’s English Department pals from her student days at Karachi University and about 13 of us made it to Roasters in Zamzama. The lively atmosphere grew as everyone was taking a trip down memory lane while having a chuckle about the good ol’ KU days. Usually, when you’re the outsider at these types of gatherings, the stories and jokes tend to be a bit lost on you; but we all had a memorable evening filled with fun and laughter.

An inspiring occasion held at the Arts Council was an evening dedicated to the Student Movement of the 1950s. We were kindly invited by Zakia Sarwar, whose late husband was one of its leaders. The theme of the evening was “Looking back to look forward.” The occasion, in part, paid homage to the collective efforts of many students of the day rallying for their rights across Pakistan; this nostalgic journey was made through slide presentations, short documentaries, impassioned speeches, a rich vocal performance by Tina Sani and verbal accounts in person from those who were intrinsic to The Movement. Reminiscent of students’ politics it took Huma back to her days at KU. The electric atmosphere of the evening was heightened by the time the acclaimed band ‘Laal’ hit the stage (see: https://www.facebook.com/laalpak?pnref=lhc). They are doing a fantastic job of raising awareness of both the students and the working class about their rights and the bright future that awaits them should they decide to move forward and claim it. They are indeed friends of democracy and human rights. As the name suggested, “Looking back to look forward” certainly fulfilled its promise. Beena Sarwar, the daughter of the late Dr. Mohammad Sarwar, is making a wonderful effort of continuing his legacy. She and her colleagues are doing an amazing job of providing a platform for the Pakistani youth to express themselves, something that they need in these challenges times. We wish them luck!

The following day it was off to the beach Pakistani style. West of Karachi, French Beach was the perfect soothing tonic. It was great to see Omayr again, who had been so gracious during Danielle’s 2007 visit. Our group spent the afternoon out on the beachfront merrily chatting away and getting acquainted. After a feast of succulent crabmeat prepared by one of the locals, it was time to sink into the lounges and gaze dreamily out over the Arabian Sea, losing ourselves in more conversation.

We managed to take the kids to the National Museum of Pakistan to change their impression that “Karachi is a place with hot bazaars and lots of people”, which is their standard response when quizzed about the city. So, after a spot of lunch at Alpha Restaurant and a quick peak in at Zainab Market – we couldn’t resist – it was off to the museum for a dose of culture and history and to learn about the Indus River Valley Civilisations, the Mughal Dynasty and Quaid-e-Azam. So-called ‘normality’ then returned when we headed to Clifton Beach for a heady mix of camel and horse rides and snake charmers by sunset. Only in Karachi! The four year old took a liking to a very cute “baby snake” that the snake charmer had brought out to show; but a meltdown nearly occurred when informed that she couldn’t take it home with her. Thankfully, it was averted with chocolates.

Huma’s father wanted to take the whole family on a day trip outside Karachi and Thatta was chosen as a place of historical interest. It is a city known for shrines of the various dynasties that once presided over the landmass that is now Pakistan. He was fortunate enough to get a special pass and we indeed felt privileged to have the opportunity to visit this area and learn something about important bygone epochs. The tombs at Makli remind one of the intransience of life and the permanence of death. The fine workmanship and the vibrant colours have withstood the test of time. It was a picture perfect day as the bright, clear sun, cloudless, blue sky and golden, sandy colour of the stone provided a striking landscape to photograph. Our next stop was the beautiful mosque in the town centre built by the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan in the Fifteenth Century to thank the townspeople for their hospitality while he was staying there. What a generous gift!

The end of our stay was drawing nigh, so the pressure was on to fit in all our shopping as there were a few gifts to pick up for people at home and we were both in need of adding to our bangle collections. Our friend Farah was obliging and offered to take Danielle to all the right places. We picked up pretty much all we needed at Gulf Market before moving on to Jafferjee’s, the place known for its quality leather goods. After making a pit stop at Butler’s in Zamzama to pick up some delectable chocolates, we joined the family for high tea at The Village at Seaview.

Now, what trip to Pakistan would be complete without getting mehendi done!

Uzma and Danielle caught up one last time for coffee at Butler’s and before we knew it we were being pushed into a rickshaw with a reassuring: “Say no more, I know someone”, and off we flew to the parlour.

Hectic was an understatement! Those 12 days were certainly an unforgettable adventure! So many things to do, so little time. Unfortunately, we still left some disappointed faces in our wake. The front door felt like a revolving door at times and the phone seemed to ring non-stop; no sooner had people waved goodbye than the phone rang and some others were on their way round. We slotted in numerous visits to the homes of family and friends new and old; and well, we did leave some things undone; so we’ll just have to readmit those to the ‘to do’ list for our next visit.

The original link can be found at: 

http://www.sadaewatansydney.com/unistudentspakvisit2010.htm

The version above has some minor modifications.

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Sydney University students visit Pakistan

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This lighthearted piece was published in 2008, after our first trip to Pakistan in November 2007. It certainly reflects the mood of the trip.

When our lecturer, Dr. Ahmar Mahboob (Department of Linguistics, University of Sydney), asked the six of us: Emily Hunter, Jane Harvey, Jana Rezková, Sandy Chang, Yuka Funabashi and I if we would be interested in accompanying him to Pakistan to present our various research papers at the 23rd annual SPELT (Society of Pakistan English Language Teachers) conference, we jumped at the opportunity. While most of us were busy preparing our end of semester papers, the excitement was quietly mounting beneath the manic exterior; for I think now we all sensed that a unique experience was about to happen.

On arrival at Jinnah International on November 1, 2007, we were whisked away by our surrogate family to the comforts of our new surroundings. We barely had time to catch our breath before being initiated into the frenetic Karachi traffic. First port of call was Bahadurabad to get us attired in shalwar kameez. Not ever having seen so many bright colours in the one place before, well, let’s say we were spoilt for choice. As well, it turned out to be an exercise in patience on the part of Dr. Mahboob in taking six women shopping! Next stop came our introduction to Pakistani cuisine: the roll kebab. We were hooked. After many squeals emanating from my colleagues on the trip home, due to the likes of traffic they hadn’t ever witnessed before, we finally collapsed into an exhausted heap, only to be awoken at sunrise by the call to prayer and a welcoming “as-salaam walaikum” as we wearily found our way downstairs to breakfast. Our days were a mixture of conference commitments, presentations at Karachi and Aga Khan Universities, teamed with site-seeing escapades: camel rides and snake-charming on Clifton Beach while taking in the magnificent sunset, shopping, a visit to the Mohatta Palace followed by high tea at The Village, a spot of sheisha at Seaview and more shopping intermingled with numerous visits to the homes of new-found friends. Then there was the very swish soirée hosted by the British Council. Students never had it quite so good! On the final day of the conference when all the formalities were said and done, we managed to escape to the cool of the Prince Theatre to see the acclaimed movie Khuda Kay Liye, which we all enjoyed immensely for its cultural value.

Along the way, we, the PAC (Pakistan Adventure Club), adopted many names for ourselves: the brood, the kids, the gang, the family; these pseudonyms formed part of the invisible glue binding us together through our new shared experiences.

Since the conference was a moveable feast, the next destination was Abbottabad, which we reached courtesy of PIA through Islamabad. Unfortunately, we didn’t see a lot of Abbottabad itself, but that was counterbalanced by the enthusiastic welcome and generous hospitality offered by our hosts. Leaving Abbottabad, we drove through some magnificent landscape of dramatic gorges and mountains before stopping for lunch in charming Nathia Gali, then Murree for more delicious food and naturally more shopping. Since our arrival in Islamabad coincided with Benizir Bhutto’s, as well as the fact that there was a demonstration due to be held the following day, the conference had been cancelled and the city was more or less in lockdown. However, after the security alert had been relaxed, this only gave us the green light for further site-seeing adventures, always accompanied by our generous hosts. We concluded our visit with our presentations at Fatima Jinnah Women’s University in Rawalpindi before departing by bus for Lahore.

Lahore was something else; a city steeped in history. On our ‘must see’ list was the Wazir Khan Mosque since it was one of the scenes featured in Khuda Kay Liye; and what visit to Lahore would be complete without looking in on the breathtaking Lahore Fort? Being a Sunday, there was a throng there. We, ourselves, at times became the tourist attraction; the locals just as intrigued by us as we were by them. We befriended Omayr who happened to be staying at the same guest-house as us. Lucky for us he turned out to be a Lahorite and offered to chauffeur us around. Our calender consisted of dinner at Cooco’s Den and Café, sheisha at Jumping Java, a visit to the magnificent Shalamar Gardens, and our final lunch as ‘a family’ at The Village. Sadly, Jane and Sandy had to depart for the real world. All good things must come to an end. What we had lost though in numbers we made up for in enthusiasm.

Warm faces welcomed us wherever we went and Multan was no exception. After presenting our papers for the final time at Bahauddin Zakariya University, a delicious surprise was awaiting us. We were transported by car through lush agricultural land to where we took the boat to one of the islands in the middle of River Ravi. What we then feasted our eyes on was nothing short of a scene out of A Thousand and One Arabian Nights. A sumptuous meal had been prepared by one of our hosts’ wives, which we enjoyed in our tent seated on plush carpets. What enhanced our magical experience occurred on our return trip to the mainland. Since the current was strong enough to propel the boat in the desired direction, the engine was switched off, allowing us to drift silently in the hazy darkness. Yet another memorable event was an afternoon shopping expedition stopping off for periodic cups of doodh-patti before our de rigueur foray into the world of bangles: a thrilling event in itself.

What an incredible adventure we had! All in all there were late nights and some very early mornings. Every wink of sleep lost was worth its weight in gold; we wouldn’t have missed any of it for the world; and for the heart-warming welcome we received wherever we went? Shukria, Pakistan!

The original link can be found at: http://sadaewatansydney.com//students-pk.htm